Many years ago I tried, what I believe, was one of the best Malbecs I had tried from Argentina, it was the Chilean winery Montes' Argentinean project called Kaiken and the wine was called Ultra - and it truly was (ultra). Since then I have watched as Kaiken has become it's own name and brand and has now also come into the Ontario market as a Vintages Essential product, meaning it is available all the time, the Ultra is still a once in a while item but the Reserva is readily available, and quite tasty. So imagine my surprise (happily) when I saw that the Ultra was coming back, but this time instead of the Malbec we were going to meet his brother, Ultra Cabernet Sauvignon (being released this weekend at Vintages - Nov. 21, 2009). I have acquired a bottle early so that I can drink it before most people even line up tomorrow morning. The wine is rich and fruity on the nose with plenty of blackberry and black cherry to go around. The palate likes to focus on the spiciness of this wine instead of the intense fruit the nose seems to hone in on, all the while we deal with some pretty firm, yet flexible tannins on the tongue. I still think the Ultra line is one of the best to come out of Argentina and I'm glad to see another varietal being used ... this is one big wine (14.5%) that needs a big glass or some decanting (or if you have it, some time). I'm also a big fan of the dark chocolate finish. Drink up.
Friday, November 20, 2009
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Ironstone Vineyards 2005 Old Vines Zinfandel (California)
Dear Lord ... when will wineries learn that plastic corks are not the best seal for a bottle of wine. When will they realize that they are taking perfectly good wine and ruining it, especially for those of us who have a wine cellar and time to age their creation. Tonight I pulled a bottle of old vines Zin out of the cellar in the hopes of enjoying it was some salmon (not a perfect pairing but what the heck). I had a heck of a time getting the capsule off the neck of the bottle because the underside was coated with a brownish tar, better known as leaked out wine. The culprit I could see, once I had removed the welded on plastic, was that the wine had leaked up the cork, coated the seal and seeped down the sides. I then saw that the offending cork was of the plastic variety and I shook my head sadly. The smell of long ago dried wine rose up from the neck and the capsule. I struggled to open the bottle (another drawback to plastic) and finally was able to dislodge the cork. The smell coming out of the glass was grapey, raisiny and sweet caramel; plum later emerged, but all sickeningly sweet. The palate was the proof of this spoiled pudding, oxidized sweet fruit slightly sherried and a touch of spicy on the finish, which has now (30 minutes later) disappeared and been replaced with the Sherry quality of sweet plums. I had about a half glass before it became to sickeningly sweet to stomach. So please Lord, let the wineries know that plastic cork just ain't cool.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Torbreck 2004 Old Vines Granache-Shiraz-Mourvedre (Australia)
Night 2 of my Gewurztraminer Challenge and I pulled out another special bottle for the "staff". Torbreck is one of my favourite Aussie producers (others that come to mind off-hand include Gemtree and Thorn-Clarke, but that's not what we're here to talk about right now). This was a bottle of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre, otherwise known as GSM. The wine was under screwcap so I was not worried about corked or oxidized wine, but what poured out of the bottle was lighter in colour than I remember; of course that's what 5 years (from vintage date) will do to a red wine. The nose was fabulous, with plenty of red fruit and berry smells that grabbed the nose and lured you into the glass. Unfortunately, the palate did not deliver on all those wonderful red berries, it fell just a tad short, instead there were dried raspberries with licorice notes through the mouth and the finish was loaded with minerality and dried herbs ... hmm, interesting. The palate was very smooth and it did open a little the longer it sat in the glass, but it never did develop the fruit that the nose alluded it would have.
Monday, November 9, 2009
Robert Mondavi 2005 Private Selection Vinetta (California)
What other "boss" is going to let you drink on the job ... I would, but that's probably why I'm not in management. On the nights of my Grape Challenges, I usually bring in a pre-wine for my "staff" to enjoy. I usually pick something I know they haven't tried like a wine purchased in the U.S. (and not available here) or something that is only available through private order. Tonight, on the first night of my Gewurztraminer Challenge, I opted for this Robert Mondavi meritage (68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc), the first meritage made at the house of Mondavi (hard to believe), and currently only available stateside. Someone pointed out that the nose was much sweeter than the taste, and sure enough they were right. The nose was sweet fruited with black raspberry, cherry and black currants. But the nose deceived when it came to the taste, which was not only dry, but had flavours not hinted at through the nose: black raspberry and cherry for sure, but there was a prominent hit of smoky licorice that carried right through to the end.
Friday, November 6, 2009
Vina Cobos 2007 Felino Cabernet Sauvignon (Argentina)
Today was one of those LONG days ... it began at the same time every other day for me begins (6 AM), I did much the same with my morning that I always do ( I posted some stuff to my blog, including a dinner at Bb33 and a Portuguese wine tasting); then it was off to teach class in the afternoon, and then to a glassware tasting in north Toronto, and finally a slow ride home, all the while wondering what to have for dinner. On my way home I decide to stop at the LCBO and pick up a few bottles of this beauty of a Cab from Argentina, which is made in conjunction with California winemaker Paul Hobbs. Now if this were a Cali-Cab by Mr. Hobbs it would fetch probably triple what it does; but because it is from Argentina it is still good value at under $20. The nose is rich and ripe with big black fruit notes along with chocolate, vanilla and spice. The palate shows the same kind of flair for flavour - big black fruit, loads of spice with chocolate and vanilla around to smooth things out. In fact, on the palate, the big hit on the tongue was spice, followed by the fruit and then the bit players already mentioned come around to smooth things over. This wine should improve even further over the next five years, so I will revisit it at some point I am sure (I bought 3 bottles). For now it is extremely enjoyable, but a word to the wise, watch out, that 14.7% alcohol, it can really sneak up on you ... so now it is time to bid you all a good night, I'm ready for bed.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Bodegas Castano 2007 La Casona Old Vines Monastrall (Spain)
If there is any justice in the world of wine you're now looking at a review of the new FuZion, right here, right now. Sure it's a buck-fifty more than a bottle of FZ (based on the $7.45 price tag here in Ontario) but you're definitely getting more than a buck-fifty worth of wine here - much more; and of course when I am talking "new Fuzion" I mean popularity-wise. La Casona comes from Bodegas Castano, the winery that makes the lovely Hecula, which is already a good value wine at $14.95; but here the house of the old-vines-wines brings us a value we can all wrap our palates around, and, most importantly, can easily afford. The nose is black currant, blackberries with plenty of spice - as the wine aerates (opens up) a strong raspberry component begins to emerge. That raspberry continues on the palate along with black fruit, spice and a nice peppery-ness. There's also plenty of acidity that'll help it accompany plenty of different kinds of meat (try it with your favourite), as well as a simple sipper on its own. I have my case, hope you grab yours, before everyone learns just how good this Spanish value is.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Lammershoek 2008 Straw Wine (South Africa)
Tonight was kind of a special evening, I wandered out to the Wine Establishment on the Esplanade to meet up with Eleanor Cosman (Bokke Wines, who specialize in South African wines) and Carla Kretzel (of Lammershoek, a winery from South Africa) to try "something special". When I got there there was a small (375ml) unassuming looking bottle on the counter and four glasses. It was a Straw Wine made from 85% Chenin Blanc and 15% Harslevelu (the grape of Tokaji, Hungary's sweet dessert wine), but this is something special and unique. Instead of the traditional drying on mats Lammershoek winemakers harvest the grapes at regular time then hang the grapes like laundry from a trellis system. The usual way to dry these grapes was on mats, but the problem with that method was rot, with no air movement the grapes didn't dry properly; the new way, air circulates, drying the grapes thoroughly and evenly, till they're the size of raisins and the sugars become more concentrated. Then the grapes are pressed (giving approximately one drop's worth per raisiny grape) and then wild-yeast-barrel-fermented for about 6 months in old barrels, that impart little to no flavour to the wine. Turns out this is a very limited production wine (~2000 375ml bottles) because the trellising system can only accommodate 10 tons of grapes and their are only 2 hectares of "Harsh" grapes available - plus both grapes come from vines that are 40+ years old, thus yields are naturally low. So with all this background information the real test is taste and smell.
The wine, when swirled coated the glass. Aromas of all things honeyed emanated, like apricots, pears, peaches and lychee; there was also brown sugar and caramel notes wafting up from the glass - for a guy with a sweet tooth like mine this boded well. In the mouth, the wine was thick yet smooth with very honeyed flavours, tasting almost like watered down honey, along with raisin and sweet tropical candied fruit notes and just a hint of spice. The wine thoroughly coated the mouth (as it did the glass) and left a long, lingering, persistent finish behind - so much so that minutes later I was licking my cheeks and still tasting the delicious residue. Everybody (5 people) were saying how it was too sweet to drink more than a splash in the glass - I took seconds and almost thirds, why not, not only was it tasty it only had 10% alcohol. Yum ... I would have had thirds, but that's just seemed gluttoness from such a small bottle.
The wine, when swirled coated the glass. Aromas of all things honeyed emanated, like apricots, pears, peaches and lychee; there was also brown sugar and caramel notes wafting up from the glass - for a guy with a sweet tooth like mine this boded well. In the mouth, the wine was thick yet smooth with very honeyed flavours, tasting almost like watered down honey, along with raisin and sweet tropical candied fruit notes and just a hint of spice. The wine thoroughly coated the mouth (as it did the glass) and left a long, lingering, persistent finish behind - so much so that minutes later I was licking my cheeks and still tasting the delicious residue. Everybody (5 people) were saying how it was too sweet to drink more than a splash in the glass - I took seconds and almost thirds, why not, not only was it tasty it only had 10% alcohol. Yum ... I would have had thirds, but that's just seemed gluttoness from such a small bottle.
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