Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Geyser Peak Winery 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon - Alexander Valley (California)

I have been a fan of Geyser Peak wines for awhile, but rarely have I tried one this old. Now I hear you saying, 6 years isn't that old, but for a drink-now style of wine (which this is) it just might be. When I first pulled the cork I caught the smell of something funky - not good, not bad, just funky. When poured into the glass the wine seemed stale and musty, I thought maybe it was corked, but I know from experience that cork taint does not blow off, it gets worse the more air that gets into the wine, so I waited. About a half hour later the wine seemed to come around, and within an hour it was downright delicious. Juicy blackberry, dry cocoa like tannins and flavours, nothing overpowering here, just nice and pleasant with a medium length black currant finish.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Warre’s 1982 Late Bottled Vintage Port (Portugal)

Tonight, it was the 2nd Annual Pine Island Wine Tasting (Pine Island is located on Lake Nipissing, south of North Bay … in what should be South Bay I am told). Invited by my cousins, I lead the 15 friends gathered in a tasting of wines from California (in honour of it being July 4 – and, for added authenticity, we have three Americans in attendance). The wines numbered 8, and they were: a Chardonnay (Wente Morning Fog), Merlot (Sterling), Pinot Noir (Robert Mondavi), Cabernet Sauvignon (Liberty School), a Syrah (Cline) and a Shiraz (R.H. Philips) - a majority spotted the difference - and two Zinfandels (organic vs. regular - the organic [Bonterra] won over everyone’s taste-buds). And despite tasting, and polishing off, the 8 bottles of wine from the honoured country, the real winner of the night was not from our neighbours to the south, it was from Portugal.

Upon his arrival, a gentleman by the name of Roger handed me a bag and said, “this is for opening tonight.” As I peeked into the bag I saw a block of Stilton cheese and his proclaimed ‘last bottle’ of Warre’s 1982 Late Bottled Vintage Port (bottled in 1986). “Damn right it’s to be opened”, I thought to myself. After dinner I was given the honour. I unwrapped two capsules from the neck (one block, one blue) to discover a fuzzy mold laden cork underneath. The corkscrew sunk in effortlessly. When it was finally removed (without any kind of pop at all, more like a whimper) I noticed the cork was soft but mainly intact (a bit had crumbled away near the bottom); the wine had seeped up to the top on two sides - aiding the molding and softening of the seal. When poured the wine was almost the colour of a 10-year-old tawny (maybe a little more on the red side than brown) and had much the same smells: cherries, orange peel and candied almonds. I got sediment in the first glass I poured and there was plenty at the bottom of the bottle, which required careful pouring - especially near the end. The palate was marvelous, dried-candied cherries, hint of orange, and dark cocoa with nutty nuances; the acidity and tannins said another 10 years of age would have been no problem … and yet it had a smoothness and richness through the mouth that was indescribable to someone who was not at the tasting (or to someone who has not tasted something similar). Interest in trying this piece of history was high, especially amongst the men (some things never change: men and port after a get together, all we needed were cigars in the study). My thanks to Roger for this 27-year-old taste treat. Next year’s Pine Island tasting is Italy, and I’m already looking forward to what Roger will pull out of his cellar.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Fitz NV Riesling Sekt Extra Trocken (Germany)

An afternoon up north with family and friends should always start with a little bubbly. I find myself slightly south of North Bay on an island getaway and the soon to happen 2nd Annual Pine Island wine tasting party extravaganza. We arrive a little early to get the full island experience and I figure, as a guest, it is my responsibility to supply the wine (or some of it anyway) – especially if you want to drink what you like. My first selection was served after a light lunch of cold cuts and cold salads. This Riesling Sekt (Sparkling wine from Germany) has been in my possession for a little over a year now, and other than that knowledge I have no idea of its true age. The nose is slightly yeasty with petrol and mac apple nuances. The palate followed suit with a green apple finish a nice hit of acidity and a long petrol-apple follow thru.

Other wine opened today: Nyarai Cellars 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Hillebrand 2006 White and Lailey Vineyard 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

MontAsolo 2004 Screw Cap Cabernet Sauvignon (Italy)

After the disaster of the Zin at last night's rib cook off, I decided to yank the first thing that caught my eye off the rack and give it a go. Turns out it was this Screw Cap Cabernet Sauvignon from Italy. The label proudly proclaims that it is from the Veneto region and has a brief description of why screw cap vs. cork. Cherry and beets on the nose, smooth red fruit with hints of vanilla on the palate ... nothing special, but certainly more quaffable than the Zins I yanked off the cellar shelves last night; and sometimes quaffable is all you need. Like tonight.

Monday, June 29, 2009

Chilean and an American Zinfandel at a Rib Cook-off

It was rib night chez Mr. Dean Tudor. The debate has raged between me and Mr. Dean for a few months now about what tastes better, back ribs or side ribs. I fall off the bone on the "back" side, while Dean is a "side" man. So after a sit down tasting of over a dozen Ontario wines (see Dean's results here); Dean and I sat down for our rib taste off. My contribution was a couple of bottles of Zinfandel, a traditional wine to have with ribs.

First out of the gate was a Zin from Chile, TerraMater 2001 Zinfandel-Shiraz (85/15 blend), it had good plum and berry smells, but was soft and bland on the palate, sadly it got eaten up by the smoky bbq flavour of the ribs and sauce. Very disappointing.

Then came the one I was looking forward to, Rosemblum 2005 Zinfandel - San Francisco Bay appelation. I am usually a fan of Rosenblum Zins and the appelation series are usually very good. I was sad to see the wine under a plastic cork, I would think that wines of this quality would deserve a real cork, or at least a screwcap. On the nose there was nothing but acetone smells (nail polish remover) and the taste did not improve on what the nose was offering up. I found this wine even more disappointing than the Chilean offering.

My goal here was to offer up some "Porker Ratings" on these wines, based on their ability to pair with the ribs (expressing them in number of oinks); but alas between their faults and their lightness there were no marks to be given. I would like to thank Dean for not making me give back the ribs - I offered before we started eating, cause after I am not sure he would have taken them back even if I offered. Again, Dean was courteous enough to let me eat my ribs and not send me out to McD's for my supper.

As an aside, cause I don't usually put my Ontario wines on this blog, but the Alvento 2006 Sondra (Merlot/Cabernet Franc) saved the cook off, pairing nicely with the smokiness and bbq sauce flavour of the ribs. I'll have a review of this wine in an upcoming newsletter. Also working nicley, was a 2007 Reserve Baco Noir from Stoney Ridge - a little light in the alcohol loafers (11.7%) - but with enough umph to impress.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Nichol, Vineyard 2005 Syrah (British Columbia)

This wine was purchased during my trip to British Columbia last year. I was over at mom and pop's place for dinner, after my few weeks away in Michigan traveling their wine route. I figured since mom had been with me during its purchase it would be nice to go back to last summer for today's family BBQ. I popped the cork and poured the wine - a funny smell emanated from the glass, and not a pleasant smell either. It wasn't corked, it was just unpleasantly funny. My mom asked, "did we try this wine?" I know we had and we had enjoyed it. Was this a case of enjoying the wine in the place of origin but getting it home was a different story? I decided to let the wine sit and see what happened. About 30-minutes later the wine was a completely different beast altogether. The funky smell was gone replaced by such things as black cherries, pepper, sweet red fruit and black licorice whips; there was even a savoury meat quality to the smell, I described it as "sweet meat" like a well-seasoned pastrami or corned beef. The palate opened up a little quicker, say within 15 minutes, the funny taste dissipated and it was drinking well with white pepper with some spicy goodness along with sweet red and black fruit. Obviously this wine needs a little time to open up, and when it does ... yum.

Mission Hill Wines from 1981 (British Columbia)

You did not read the title wrong, yes it does say 1981, 28 years ago. Last night I decided to step back in time and open a couple of bottles that a fellow wine writer passed on to me from his collection. He just so happened to have a few bottles of a Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon made at Mission Hill Vineyards in the Okanagan. Interesting thing about these wines is, they are not made with BC fruit, they are actually made with foreign fruit - althought that is not indicated anywhere on the bottle's label. The Private Reserve Pinot Noir was made using grapes from Oregon, while the Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was from Washington grapes. So now that the real origin of the wine has been disclosed let me tell you how they smelled and tasted after all this time. If I was going to to give you the Reader's Digest version it would be something like this: "not bad at all". For those willing to go a little more indepth with me on this one, read on.

I opened the Pinot Noir first, it was obviously old with a brown colour and dried blackberries, cherries and some raisining on the nose; but in the mouth it was surprisingly alive with hints of spice and a raisin in the sun quality. The wine headed south fast, within about half an hour the wine had become more oxidized and older in both flavour and smell, but the initial surprise of this wine was how alive it was at first, and how it carried on for as long as it did.

The Cabernet Sauvignon was a bit more complex. The colour was almost the same as the Pinot, maybe a touch darker, but not by much. The nose had a hint of mint on it, which combined pleasantly with some tea leaf aromas. Over the course of the next hour the wine changed from tea to licorice to a mocha-coffee smell and finally to something more akin to dried leaves and foresty smells. While the nose was impressive for its age the palate was less forgiving. The wine started off well with dried black fruit and tea tastes, the mid-palate was of most interest with that taste you get from sweet dried fruit snacks: the taste had turned old much sooner than the nose, which is something I found surprising. This truly was an interesting piece of British Columbia wine history.